Understand the layout before cutting
Lay the opened wallet with its long dimension running left to right. One pocket sits at the left end and one at the right; both openings face toward the middle. The centre fold runs from top to bottom between them.
The diagram shows the insertion direction and the space kept clear for the centre fold.
Opened lining, right side up
Folded pocket edges face the centre. Insert each card short edge first; test grip before using final fabric.
Cut the sample pieces
Use a 1 cm seam allowance for this exercise. Cut one outer and one lining, each 22 cm wide by 13 cm high. Cut two pockets, each 14 cm wide by 13 cm high. Cut interfacing to support the outer without adding unnecessary bulk at the seam allowances; an approximately 20 by 11 cm piece covers the area inside them.
Before allowing for turning thickness, the seam lines make a 20 × 11 cm rectangle, folded to about 10 × 11 cm. A thicker fabric stack and edge stitching reduce the usable pocket space.
Use a stable woven such as quilting cotton for the first sample. Test the full stack before pairing a heavy outer with heavy pockets and interfacing.
Fold and place the pockets
Fold each pocket across its 14 cm width, wrong sides together, to make a 7 cm-wide by 13 cm-high piece. Press and stitch near the folded edge if wanted. With the lining right side up, place one at each end: raw edges meet the lining's top, bottom and short end; the clean folds face inward.
Baste within the 1 cm allowance. After the perimeter seam, each pocket is roughly 6 cm deep before edge stitching. Compare that with the card's long dimension and the part you want to grip. Adjust your sample if too little card remains accessible.
Join and turn
Apply interfacing according to its maker's instructions and let it cool. Place the outer right side down over the prepared lining. Sew the perimeter, leaving a turning gap near the middle of a long edge, clear of the pocket openings.
Check the pocket layers are caught at their three raw edges. Reduce corner bulk without cutting the stitches. Turn through the gap and shape the corners with a blunt tool. Fold the gap allowances inward and press the perimeter.
Edge stitch, fold and test
Stitch around the edge, closing the gap. A line approximately 2 mm from the edge is a starting point; keep the allowance consistent and make sure it catches the gap. Fold across the middle with the pockets inside and press gently.
- Insert your intended card load short edge first and record the usable pocket depth.
- Check how much card you can grip, then fold the wallet and try removing the cards again.
- Test over a table and record any slipping as you open and close it. These open pockets cannot guarantee retention when inverted.
For valuables, choose a wallet with a tested closure. Keep this sample and your measurements for practice until the fit and retention suit your intended use.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my card disappear into the pocket?
Compare the measured usable depth with the card dimension shown entering the pocket in the diagram. To change the orientation, reduce and test the depth instead of keeping the same dimensions.
Why does the folded wallet feel bulky?
Try lighter pockets or interfacing and check the seam allowances at the corners. Keep your card count modest while comparing samples; extra thickness changes both folding and capacity.