Identify the insertion seams
Lay out the outer hood pieces right side up and label left and right as worn. Find the two ear-base insertion lines and the matching ear pieces. If your pattern has no ear insertion marks, choose a version with a documented placement before cutting.
Confirm whether the pattern is lined and when the lining joins. This article covers ear preparation and placement checks; use the hood pattern's own opening, lining and neckline sequence for the rest.
Make a mirrored pair of ears
Check each piece's fabric direction and cutting quantity. Join the specified front and back ear layers with right sides together, keeping the base open if that is the attachment route. Reduce bulky allowances without cutting the seam, turn and press appropriately.
Compare the two ears side by side. Apply any base folds or pleats as mirror images and baste them within the allowance. If support is needed, test it first: stiff support can change both the ear's angle and the thickness the hood seam must hold.
Baste before closing the hood seam
Place each ear's raw base at its marked outer-hood seam, with the ear lying toward the interior of the hood piece while right sides are being joined. Check the finished orientation by folding the hood pieces into their sewn position before stitching. The visible ear face should point the way the pattern intends after turning.
1. Baste on the right side
Hood piece lies flat, right side up. The ear base meets its insertion edge; the ear lies inward over the hood. Place the mating hood piece right side down over it before sewing.
2. Open to the finished position
After opening the hood seam, the ear projects outside. In this example its visible front faces the viewer. Check the other ear as a mirror image while both bases are still basted.
Baste both ears, then place the hood over a rounded form or test it on the wearer as appropriate. Compare distance from the opening, angle and height from front and side views. Adjust the basting before enclosing the bases in the permanent seams.
Complete the hood's own finishing route
Sew the designated insertion seams with the ear bases secured as required. Check the attachment from both sides before reducing allowances. Keep the ears clear of unrelated seams when joining the remaining outer pieces and lining.
If the original pattern includes opening elastic, complete its specified route and anchors before joining the hood to the garment.
Baste the neckline and check the opening and head movement before completing that join. The ears should not pull the hood over the eyes or make the neckline uncomfortable.
Children's clothing needs a separate safety check
Do not add hood or neck drawcords to children's upper outerwear. U.S. CPSC guidance identifies them in sizes 2T–12 or equivalent as a strangulation hazard. Check other applicable age, use and market requirements separately.
Check the ear attachments for loose stitching and try the hood for head movement and side vision. Review decorative-part requirements for the intended age separately.
Frequently asked questions
When should I add the lining?
Check both ears from the front and sides while their bases are basted and accessible. Sew and inspect the designated insertion seams before following the hood pattern’s lining sequence.
Why does one ear lean differently?
Compare the mirrored base folds, insertion angle, seam allowance and support. Change the basted placement before trying to reshape a permanently enclosed base.