Check that the hood belongs to the neckline
Identify the hood's neckline ends, back centre, opening edge and cutting quantities for both layers. Compare the hood and cape at their stitching lines and check the pattern's ease or overlap marks. A hood borrowed from another garment may not match the neckline even if the raw edges seem close.
Confirm the seam allowances and closure before cutting. Make a sample of the full fabric stack, including lining and any trim, to check bulk and pressing. If changing the hood shape or fabric weight, test it in a toile before cutting the final cloth.
Sew the two layers separately
For a two-piece hood, join the designated centre seam of the outer pair with right sides together, then do the same for the lining pair. A multi-piece hood has a different piece map; follow its seam names rather than assuming all pieces meet in a single centre seam.
Check the two layers against each other. Their opening and neckline marks should still be identifiable. Keep the neckline attachment edge open.
Join the opening and turn
Place outer and lining right sides together, matching the opening marks and centre seam. Sew the opening edge as specified. Reduce bulk and clip curves only where required, protecting the stitches. Turn through the open neckline and press with a setting tested on the lining as well as the outer cloth.
Check that the lining sits inside without pulling the opening or twisting the hood. Add any specified opening topstitching before the neckline becomes less accessible.
Baste the hood to the cape
Match back centre and both front-end marks at the neckline. Baste and check the cape with its intended closure in place. Compare the front-end heights and make sure the neckline seam has not caught a fold.
Put the hood up and turn the head. Check side vision, room at the back of the head and comfort at the neck. Alter the test version if needed; pulling harder at the neckline join will not add missing hood depth.
Circle the neckline-finishing step in your cape instructions. Keep the inner edge needed by that facing, binding or lining step accessible until the join is complete.
Keep decorative variations separate
A ruffle at the opening must be planned before the opening seam is sewn. Ears need designated insertion seams or openings and their own placement checks. See the animal-ear placement guide for that separate task.
Children's hood and neck drawcords
Do not use a hood or neck drawcord on children's upper outerwear. The U.S. CPSC guidance identifies these drawstrings in sizes 2T–12 or equivalent as a strangulation hazard; check the applicable requirements for the garment’s age, use and market as well.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the lining twist inside the hood?
Check that the two centre seams and both opening ends match, then compare the neckline edges before attaching them. Release any basting that pulls one layer around the other and check again with the hood turned into its finished position.